As usual when Albert says: "I have a proposal" as you may think that a company will not be easy. Aquest cop, although we still have fresh memories of some rock and heat, proposes to Xavi and I do Ginat, has the cara north of the Straights, the massif of Mont Blanc.
“Unlike the Bonatti pillar, the Walker or even the Freney, it seems improbable that the North Face of Les Droites will ever be donwgraded, or become popular and lose its character. It will always remain remote and untamed.”
Gaston Rebuffat
Via Ginat – The Straight
Albert breast us and prepares us for lunch and dinner Friday. As soon folded school march towards Chamonix, ens expected camí llarg, Albert de l'soporific music, and all the CDs that brings thousands to the car and the concern that we expected. We make a small stop 5 hours sleep in a service station and arrive at 8:30 Chamonix, un parell de pain de chocolat i un café au lait.
Prepare material (semblem marujes, -"You who happen to catch the thermal et cucumber or curta samarreta?"-" I thou?"-" The semi-gore piju nova season or Quechua plàstiquillo?”) i dit walking S'ha, We expect to 1500m of altitude crossing the Refuge d'Argentière glacier that bears his name. Quin Espectacle!! May havia vist each Esquerdes tan Bèsties, really better not drop it because if not I'd.
We arrived at the shelter free of, quin luxury!! Hi i have stove llum!! Francesos Aquests do know that! Not have dinner with a few incidents with the Jet Boil (This is a drama of melting snow), i to sleep, or at least try it with the symphony of snoring and the noise made by Italians. My mother says that someone who silenced this is not the super disco fashion!!
1:00 - The alarm sounds and a roped suddenly wakes up all the shelter, looks like a "last MARICA". We like the cool so we stayed in bed doing nothing more than 30min, because neither can be lazy.
Sortim of Refugi, travessem will freeze the, two cracks of width ca and finally we are at the base of the rimaya.
4:00 – We encordem and Albert begins to climb.
Quan them Acaba the rope, i jo el Xavi comencem the pujar, anem a l'ensamble, i seguim pujant, i pujant, i pujant… cony aixo not s'acaba? Where is the meeting with Albert?… bid, i pujar, i pujar… Portem molt MES 60m!! Let a considerable pace and I can not stop to catch his breath because I am still pulling the rope up and tells me Xavi: Tibia that can not destabilize the Albert, so up!
After about 200m Albert has assembled meeting, I can finally get some rest, and two deu haver Posat uns 5 els cargols in 200m, pa flipá!! Li passem material the hi-sant tornem!!. This way of scaling the ensemble allows you to fly but it has its risks and the words of Albert, or scaled so that you can not climb or. Repetim the proces 5 more times to place ourselves under the first waterfall, ara “comencen les dificultats” com si el que hem fet fins ara fos una brometa jejeje.
Ed dia ja, spent a few clasped in front and everything indicates that we can get up to light to find the either of abseiling down.
Now as we move more slowly pulling for long and this makes it very slow going. Albert begins to tire (I thought that this man never tires) Xavi and makes over a pair of long, Quan es fa just sogc.
18:30 - Yes, really getting dark, right now because we know that come up at night. I am also aware that a while ago that I do not feel my toes or two index hands. Per article further Ultim m'adono that they 13 meetings across the way will there be even a comfortable. Ens are facing 3 many more, the latter again in the ensemble to climb and play with front, it is dark night and we are only at the wall.
22:00 - Arribem cim of the coll, we must be on a 3990m and the only thing there is the other side is empty and dark, only pray that there are many bonuses that are good and.
The Luke told us that we would not have problem because we hooked the ropes, Be that would lower.
Piquem a delicious Twix (the balls are to Twix and Kit Kat fucking) the female a glop, 18h ja portem Escalant, only 1.25 L of fluid in the body and a pair of bars.
22:30 - I start off the first I've a good front even though I do not know how long it is. Trobo bé the first R. Down and the other to pull the rope… SHIT!! S'ha enganxat i in low (Now we all remember the words of Luke, vegi quan li the nus fisherman Fotre a role c…..) Fi, begin to be tired and these small disappointments are harder to take than normal).
Segon the Rapel, a Mitges, em stay llum sense. Encenc the front 2n duia, some Mes meters i, other shit cop, ara caught the se'm Machard!! AARRGG what else can happen??!! Trobo the segona R i ch Avall. From now on Xavi who will fall first, tea the front millor.
The passen hores, The bonuses also, in general are a mica precaris, in some reforcem, He Xavi low primer, Albert l'i jo intentem be desperts…
– Lliure!!
– Albert tiu ho not have sentit?
– Feel that?
– Pussy that Xavi has already reached the following R, ET touches down.
– Òstia no he sentit res, estava sobant.
1:00 – This trend was happening while the bastards Italians were the night before giving his ass to make it easy to talk now pulling us down stones since our last. Have appeared in a different way and throw a few boulders that touched us as we can do much harm.
– Be careful with piedra!!!! Please!!! Dec in Italy macarrònic meu-.
Ni puto cas. We will monitor whether any more, since some of these stones will pass very close to this level and impact could have dire consequences. Passem moments of angoixa, We know that most accidents happen to the mountain descents, so good going over account.
5:00: The Italians seem to feel that rain followed by throwing rocks no matter who we are much below. More and more we want to reach down, are increasingly more tired and nausea dehydration begin to appear, has Veure acabem if ja!!
7:00 - Finally just made the last rappel to overcome rimaya, "Only" have been 8:30h rapelant. We can say that we finished the half way, you know until they reach the car can not say wheat.
Set a women sopinstant, a white mica xocolata, a mica pa i a string-cop is altre, we have to cross the glacier that has some cracks Couvercle much larger than that of Argentière. A mig camí l'Albert has to stop pi Enmig per plant of such a neu, ens això forces to stop the TOTSA, i "lose" my time. We are increasingly tired and less agile to do anything, F tot are slow, tot s'eternitza, not seem to ever get out from this sea of snow, gel i roca.
9:00 - It took hours to fully, seems that sleep is a thing of the past and now we have a long way to train Montenvers that leads back to Chamonix. At first we somewhat difficult to find the path down to the Mer de Glace, hi ha fites, But Albert did not just remember the exact descent and this demoralizes, especially, when we realize that we were going to turn around backwards.
12:00 – Download Ferrata to the Mer de Glace, per left here, morrena for Allah, roped another that is moving down towards the train, a look at the three, one thought, "Can go as fast as these French, if we are dragging!!"At times like this that you think should have gone running that day you'll be lying on the couch, see later és ja.
Finalment arribem a la ferrata de pujada al tren, this time we do not put us all and that the harness must earn enough vertical drop of 200m, the relliscada a serious fatal. What sad end well after all we did not?? Ara tenim rush, not want to miss the boat.
15:00 - Take the penultimate train down, do something really worth seeing and I do not want to imagine the smell, and on the Albert removed his boots in the middle of the train!! Now we are all equal, after coming where we come from our primary needs are and take away the boots that we wear is a 38h ago.
17:00 - For the fi cotxe!! Now we can say that yes we have completed the Ginat!! We change our clothes and some magical toallites we eat a good pizza and fondue, l'ens hem guanyat.
19:30 - Ja hem sopat, ask the waiter to take note and go to the bathroom (really is a sight to see us walking, semblem trets opinion of a Geriatric), the whole restaurant looks at us as we go to the bathroom and as painfully as we descend the stairs, vull not think it deuen imagine. While we hope that we can not charge more Albert, asleep on my shoulder like a child, begins sentences and half asleep, leaving them unfulfilled.
21:00 - Do not leave you - says Albert - 44H spent sleepless, estem trinxats, now you can not take the car! I surprisingly do not have much sleep and I am with a heart of lead time to do the whole trip Tuesday, is a pole and all you earn today will welcome.
21:05 - Hi this is a finger diu: "If things go wrong, can always get worse ". Now what more can happen???!!! Xavi is not your credit card!! Dismantle the car while sleeping Albert, traiem el li li fa bag coixí, obrim totes doors, and two ni s'immuta. Després of mitja hours, finally the find and start the return journey.
23:00 - My body says enough, my eyes begin to close and not want to end my days in as good of Gulich. We stop at a service area. Albert wakes up and says - there are many light-here. Serà possible! It is the second area in which to find the best and stop complaining that the sleepy! No female cas them, is too sleepy to know what it says.
23:05 - 3800m of desnivell, 1200m i 30h d'climbing, 8h ràpels, 14h caminant. I think I've reached my limit, 46Després pm.
